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crajode4655

African Buffering Salts......Are they neccessary?

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I use the Seachem Cichlid Salts along with the Tanganyikan Buffer and dose Cichlid Trace Elements

Mainly to get the right water conditions but it also allows better growth of the fish, better colouration, better breeding conditions

well that's what I've noticed anyway, after going from using nothing to using all those products

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Hahahaha funny you should post that one Brenton - I just finished reading it! It enlightened me a bit and was a top read.

The more I read, the more I learn. The more I learn, the more I realise I gotta spend. The more I spend, the more justification I need for the missus.......I see a pattern of addiction beginning to form here.........*sigh*

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Hey Craig

Buffers are only needed if your new water source is not what you need for the fish you keep.Also buying expensive brand name stuff is a waste of money.You can make your own very cheaply with every day items.

What is the PH,GH and KH of your new water.

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The PH tends to be around 7.2 - 7.6 whereas Im lead to believe from some threads Brisbane water is around 8.2 - a more desireable level, I havent checked the others (GH & KH) as Ive only just been reading into the roles they play and therefore wasnt aware that I should be watching them too.

I took a couple of the Male Cobues and Male White Knights into swap for some Mainago today at one of the local joints here in town and he tested the PH in the bag and said I need to bump it up.

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7.8 PH and higher is desirable for your africans.Use Bi Carb soda from the supermarket to raise the PH and KH

Keep the KH above 4 ish and the PH will become stable.

A water hardness (GH) of 300 ppm is good and every day epsoms salts from the supermarket will do that job just fine.

If your on tank water some marine salt is beneficial as well to add back some minerals and trace elements.

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7.8 PH and higher is desirable for your africans.Use Bi Carb soda from the supermarket to raise the PH and KH

Keep the KH above 4 ish and the PH will become stable.

A water hardness (GH) of 300 ppm is good and every day epsoms salts from the supermarket will do that job just fine.

If your on tank water some marine salt is beneficial as well to add back some minerals and trace elements.

Good info Lance!

In regards to the KH and GH do you use these levels for malawi and tangs?

Steve :mrgreen:

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Hi Steve

If you maintain those levels as a minimum for both Malawi and Tangs your fish will be very happy and healthy and breed like rabbits for ya.

Tangs do come from higher PH waters but they also live just fine in water around 8.0.

You can go as high as 9.5 - 10 PH and hardness of 500 ppm.

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Steve dose rates is very dependent on what your new water levels are.

With my tap water I use a 1 litre jug of Bi Carb and 2 Jugs of Epsoms salt per 1000 L water change.

Prior to the addition of flouride i never added anything as my water was near perfect from the tap but now it is shitfull.

The problem with commercial buffers is you get a set amount of each buffer type in a container but every ones water starts at different levels so to raise say the PH with a bought buffer you also have to raise the GH as its in the buffering agent you buy.

The good part of making your own is you can add and adjust any part of your water parameters depending what levels your water is at.

That's the reason I use a 2:1 mix of epsoms salt to bi carb as my PH is quite high but the GH is near non existent.

Bi carb will only raise your PH to about 8.2 and any more added after that will target the KH and begin to raise that.

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The problem with commercial buffers is you get a set amount of each buffer type in a container but every ones water starts at different levels so to raise say the PH with a bought buffer you also have to raise the GH as its in the buffering agent you buy.

Is the problem with overseas comercial buffers. Hence the reason I am introducing aqua pics to qld all I do is cotact the manufacturer with the water parameters of the area it is being sold in and it is adjusted accordingly. Every batch is made individually and fresh to order.

The funny thing is that marine salt isnt that cheap either but everyone keeps recomending it for extra minerals which blows the cost out. Also epsom salt should never be used with catfish even syno's it does create problems with them.

BUt each to their own and by the way someone on that thread also suggested the dyi method and I know is using comercial salts at the time of writing so in his case do as I say and not as I do.

As shon said she has seen a difference as have many people that use comercial buffers. But in the end it comes down to 2 things your pocket and what you want out of your fish. Think about both before you make your decision.

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As shon said she has seen a difference as have many people that use comercial buffers. But in the end it comes down to 2 things your pocket and what you want out of your fish. Think about both before you make your decision.

IM A GUY! :lol:

but yes, i just stick with the commercial stuff, less hassle and not bad when in bulk :)

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um i dont know :econf: i personally dont buy in bulk but if your buying like 1KG which is HEAPS

$47.70 Seachem Tanganyika Buffer 1kg... Treats up to 24,000 litres

http://www.aquaticlifeaquariums.com.au/ ... /d197.html

or even the aqua pics stuff which i am yet to try

i use the seachem stuff, the 240gram containers which last me about 3 months, so in the overall scheme of things and the cost of my fish, i'd rather spend the extra $15

to keep them happy, (also triggered breeding)

as for the different water parameters,

i just added a bit (im not very technical, about 3 scoops to my water) to the water the first time and it was all fine after i tested it

and over a few days added more to get it to the right levels

i didnt test my water at the start

after testing and adding so many times you get to know how much to add after each water change

for example after every water change i add 1.5 scoops of buffer and salt and my water parameters stay constant, but if pH is going low then i do add more buffer

err hope it all makes sense, im not too smart with it all, i just add the products, test and its all fine

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Now y'all have confused me!!!!! So if I have normal bristlenose in my tanks I shouldnt use Epsom????

Gotta just love a salesman trying to flog his own product.

It is fine to use it with bristlenose.

Talk to some of the bigger breeders on here and they will point you in the right direction because they all make their own buffers and most have bristlenose and or L Numbers.

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well to sum it up...

yes buffers and salts are good to use, being necessary are up to you

as for commercial or home made, do whichever you like, some prefer one or the other

commercial works for me so thats what i stick with

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No it is not fine to use with bristlenose. It causes problems in their digestive system. By the way i am a breeder of bristlenose and have over 40 colonies of them. They have been the focus of my hobby for the last 20 years. If you are using it and have had no problems then you are lucky. Also i ask you this what is the survival rate of your fry truthfully.

I also make no apologies for being a salesman and letting people now about the products I not only sell but use in my own room every day and i dont bs when it comes to every order made fresh and adjusted to meet the areas requirements which is the reason it takes 2 weeks to get to the store from the manufacturer.

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Steve dose rates is very dependent on what your new water levels are.

With my tap water I use a 1 litre jug of Bi Carb and 2 Jugs of Epsoms salt per 1000 L water change.

Prior to the addition of flouride i never added anything as my water was near perfect from the tap but now it is shitfull.

Bit off topic but thought I would clarify the above. I doubt fluride would be the problem. It is more likely the new water grid kicking in. QBWSA, Linkwater and SEQWater now shift water between different areas depending on the different councils requirements. This movement causes major fluctuations in water parameters coming out of our taps. For eg. water from South Maclean area is hard with a higher pH and brisbane has softer, slighty lower pH. The water is also treated differently at different treatment plants. Some use Chloramine, some amonia, some chlorine and some use a mix of these together. So with all this different water being shifted around you can see how your water coming from the tap is not perfect anymore. One last thing. No I dont work for Anna or any gov body but I do get to talk to the guys at the treatment plants and on the grid quite often. No barrow to push, just want to keep people informed.

Rob

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Geez the mission to find the ol Epsom at woolies today!! 3 younger people who work there had no idea what it was! I even said "Your mum prolly used to mix it in cordial and give it to you when you pissed her off on school holidays!!!"

Now I just gotta wait on my test kits to turn up off ebay and from Guppies!

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I only use what I sell and I test everything. I have given you reasons why not to use epsom salts with bristlenose it doesnt worry me if you dont take my advice.

Tell you what I am going to set up 2 tanks here one using the epsom salts, bicarb mix. The other using comercial buffers and I will make a video of the progress. They will both be fed the same, same number of fish and filtration. I will place a mix of yellows and demasoni.

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Gotta just love a salesman trying to flog his own product.

Like there is no need for this comment by lance which started it. It is pretty sad that everything I say lately is because I am trying to take your money. Plain and simple I have found something that works and because I want to provide this to others I am wrong.

What many dont seem to understand is I believe in these products that I sell, I use them everyday on my own fish. I chose the industry because I am passionate about it and have been since a young child. Those who have met me face to face can verify this. My only reason for even taking on these products is because I use them and know they work. But ever since doing so have been constantly slammed for alterior motives.

My main business is breeding fish and then the products. I do what is right for my fish not because of price because I want to supply the best quality I can. I cannot supply high quality fish if I try to cut corners. I have used the DYI method for a number of years and while it works good it never worked great. I have found by costing out myself what may seems as a high initial expense to start with, when used as directed turns out to be better expense in the long run. Whenever I see people recomending the DYI buffers they also admit to having to add marine salts for the missing minerals. Marine salts are in no way cheap and I bet if you sat down and worked out the costing yourself there would be a big surprise when you compare the 2.

The point I was proving was that with one phone call I can have any of the products adjusted to meet the criteria of the area it is sold within. Tell me what other buffer company does that.

The other comment I get alot is show me scientific proof. HMM love this one as many studies that have been done in this industry are by hobbyist and people that have absolutely no scientific back ground but write an article and it is gospel because it is placed in google.I have over 20 years of magazines here alone Which I have read every one. I take a lto of information in and try it before I recomend anything to someone else.I dont mean just one companies magazine neither. I was buying and subbing to 5 different aquarium and aquaculture magazines a month. So when people are saying to me I am wrong and misinforming people I do get upset. I am only relaying what Ihave learnt via one means or another and tested. Like Dfishkeeper said and you wonder why the older more experinced members dont post.

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