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ok, ive started

As you can see my shed is a freaking mess, that will change soon i hope.

Today i started a wall to create a room 3.6m x 3 m (on the otherside of the wall )

so far so good, will have fibro on this side and inulation blanket (the kind with the foil on one side) on the inside.

will fully insulate the whole room

Got a new grundfos 32-80 yesterday to run it too

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Your going to run out of room but that happens regardless of the room size. I have used sheets of 25mm polystyrene and just glued them to the back of tanks/stands to make an adequate heat retaining internal wall to save time and money. I notice your fishroom is inside anyway.

Looking forward to progress pics.

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Your going to run out of room but that happens regardless of the room size. I have used sheets of 25mm polystyrene and just glued them to the back of tanks/stands to make an adequate heat retaining internal wall to save time and money. I notice your fishroom is inside anyway.

Looking forward to progress pics.

I couldnt sacrifice anymore of my shed unfortunately.

But it will hold all the tanks i currently own which are in the way of a major reno i am about to undertake. Then later on ill have room to go a bit bigger.

I will put the inulation on the two timberwalls and the cieling and on one outside brick wall, the oposite brick wall is bouble brick and connects to the house so i figure i wont worry about that one.

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Thanks to some inspiration provided by my mate RAY. and his pics of his plastic sump (no longer availabe)

I have been to BUNNINGS and aquired a TUB

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this combined with my ups 32-80 pump and all the bioballs, gutter guard and matrix i have should sevice all my large tanks.

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...nice job Jimboozed.

Interesting to see what flow rates that Grundfos achieves.

Will the lip of the bottom tub take all the weight sitting on it?

It may also spread apart. Maybe make a stand inside the large tub for the littlies to sit on.

Gutter guard in the top tub I see, rock and wool in the 2nd and 3rd?

So many questions :lol:

wolften

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Looking good George :)

hope it all goes well

Wolfy, my worm farms which are similar to what George is doing is sitting on custom stands :) the bottom tub can hold its shape even when full, i have coral rubble in my base, then course and fine gravel with bio cubes, then more bios then a top tub of dacron to take out all the sh t :) looks gr8, the flow rate on the grundfos will be more than adequate

:)

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ok

today i put a hole through thew wall for the drain from the sump

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Cut the bottoms out of the fish tubs and used zip ties to hold some gutter guard in place

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connected some plumbing to the tub, drain and overflow

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will maybee get the pump and auto-topup float valve done tommorrow

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George,

My 2.2 cents ..... forget the float valve and put in a 24/7 dripper instead. Change your closed tap in the bottom of your sump to a simple standpipe (keeping enough capacity during power outages) and then you will have a failsafe auto waterchange. You are better off changing water gradually than on any one given day when you consider erratic tapwater - ammonia/nitrite spikes and temp differences in winter. Depending on the amount you change daily, you dont even need a carbon filter to remove chlorine/chloramines but these are so cheap that you might as well. If so, get a filter cartridge you can self load so you can specify what grade of carbon/mechanical filtration you want.

The float valves do not work well unless under strong pressure, are not very precise and will still occasionally fail. I have never seen a square brick drill before! Use some grout and matching brick colour to fill the gap rather than space invader foam filler. Its more insect proof.

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where where you yesterday when i was trying to get my head around all this..lol

i like the sound of you idea.

ok so when the power goes out the sump will obviously drain all the excess water out the wall..

what happens when the power comes back on, the dripper will take hous to replace the water lost when the tanks turned off and the pump will run dry?

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George,

Your kind of right however make sure you have enough reserve water capacity in the sump so that when the power comes back on, the pump DOES NOT run dry. You are correct that the sump water level will be much lower than the usual standpipe level for a short term but thats no problem..... the drippers will slowly fill again at exactly the same rate of water change you pre-determine. Irrigation drippers are amazingly accurate and you can either buy pre-set rate drippers (23 cents each) or a control it yourself type dripper. Test them periodically with a stopwatch and bucket if you wish. Do keep the dripper(s) above water so they dont clog and so you can visually check they are dripping. The other big advantage is you can run 4mm dripper micro-irrigation ALL OVER and to different central systems (ie much higher rates for growout systems) far more economically than pressure pipe and much less un-obtrusively. On large fishrooms this is a HUGE benefit.

In fact if you ever wanted an emergency waterchange you could just turn the power off to force a water dump.

This is just my 2.2 cents but I have installed quite a few large and small fishrooms and constantly playing around with a few different ideas including flushing sumps, vortex, float bead filters, UV, R.O, resins, magnetic seperaters, solar heating etc. Naturally, I wont mind if you ignore my advice as sometimes its necessary to find somethings out yourself.

Other small suggestions I suggest are adding a short silicon hose sleeve on any PVC standpipes so you can slide and fine tune the heights easily. If you drill a series of holes around the top of standpipe this will act as a prefilter and the actual top of the pipe will be your emergency overflow should the pre-filter ever clog. The grundos has excellent head so I would add a spare tap somewhere convenient for filling buckets or fish bags easily for the times you need to transport fish.

Since your brickwall hole is already so large, I would consider adding a 200L barrel or old glass tank kept outside with both a drain and incoming tap still connected to your central sump so you can live culture infusoria or greenwater or daphnia in winter. Kept isolated from your main system until you want to trickle the system with live feed. I also do inside this for staggered baby brine shrimp hatching tanks since a 50L hatching tank of salt water wont affect salinity on large systems. Its great to feed thousands of fish by simply turning on a tap and walking away! Both adult breeders and fry will appreciate with fantastic colours. I have a heap of other ideas regards lighting, stands, electrical work etc too but I dont want to come accross a know-it-all :)

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etc too but I dont want to come accross a know-it-all AQUAHOLIC99

OMG i love reading your post, your like a dictionary on fish keeping. The next Mr konning!! Please dont hold back the forum needs a GOOD know it all. Cheers heaps for all the help and advice you give everyone its so valuable.

Nick

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thanks heaps for ya ideas aquaholic99

you obviously have plenty of experience and as always your opinions are apreciated

i will put a little more thought into this before going further

ill keep you all updated

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Irrigation drippers are amazingly accurate and you can either buy pre-set rate drippers (23 cents each) or a control it yourself type dripper. Test them periodically with a stopwatch and bucket if you wish. Do keep the dripper(s) above water so they dont clog and so you can visually check they are dripping. The other big advantage is you can run 4mm dripper micro-irrigation ALL OVER and to different central systems (ie much higher rates for growout systems) far more economically than pressure pipe and much less un-obtrusively. On large fishrooms this is a HUGE benefit.

Any ideas where to get these drippers from?

Ta

Graeme

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Slowly but surely taking shape! The silver reflective insulation would drive me nuts though.... Does it wripple noisily if you use a room fan? Hopefully you are heating the room (not tanks) as it might get condensation problems otherwise. Corflute is pretty cheap if you want to hide it.

I cant see from your photos but do you have anything under your stand legs? Concrete tends to keep water if not well exposed so some waterproof legs like plastic chopping board will reduce any rust risk. I use house bricks since mine are free, match the house and this adds 15cm to the stand height, saving me 15cm per stand leg. (I do have lots of stand legs). Your sump looks like it could easily house something that doesnt mind water flow. Red claw crays or breedable loaches perhaps?

Also, if your bottom tanks are too dark and your not going to have individual lights over each tank, I would just cut out the polystyrene under each tank to allow the ceiling room light all the way through. Some fish will suffer from depth perception initially (try to swim down to next tier) but they adjust quickly. And if your going to do that, then simply use strips (not whole sheets) of polystyrene for the next lot of stands.

Keep the progress photos coming.

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yeah, getting there slowly

the reflective foil is pretty heavy and is glued to the batts on the other side it doesnt rinkle or make any noise at all, it is a blanket insulation used in rooves under the iron or tiles so it is pretty tough.

at the moment i have a heater in the sump, but once i get all the insulation up on the other walls ill change that.

under the bottoms of the legs are galvinized bolts that wind in and out for adjustment, hopefully the gal should resist rusting but i do see your point and will consider it for the other stands that will go in there :D

i will have light on all the tanks, conected to a main switch and also a main room light on a seperate switch.

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