fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 This is part of the project I have been working on in my garage. Looking to connect a total of 8 IBC's... 1 being the filter I have created. First I purchased 3x 45L/min ( 25Watt ) halia compressors from Ebay for $100 total inc delivery. The larger ones don't seem to do much more when you calculate the power they use. more indeppendent units = less power consumption + higher overall out put. currently using just the 1 which I fitted a longer single line with a larger stone. picked up a 300Watt jager heater for $65 delivered and hung inside the single IBC. ( when all the IBC's are connectted and purchase more heaters I will install them in the bottom of the filter IBC. I found you can get away with less heaters for a larger volume of water.) Step 1 FILTER - the filter is the hardest part to construct. constructed a frame with S/S screws, pergola roofing sheet and plastic corner thing I guess you could get from Bunnings. when constructing the cage reinforce the sides with the pergola roofing as the batts will bulge out sideways when they start to build up. lay the bio batts inside the cage and lower the cage inside the IBC using rope like a coffin. Step 2 SPRAY BAR - drill another fitted sheet of pergola roofing in the lower groove to allow water to trickle through and using a 65mm PVC pressure pipe approx. 120cm, cut one end at 45 degrees (this is a must as it allows easy insertion later) Just behind the 45 cut, slice 4 slits approx. 2cm around the pipe using a drop saw to allow a gutter guard mesh to sit inside the pipe, then do another 4 slits parallel to the first 4. now drill holes according to grooves remembering the 45 end is the inlet from the adjoining tank. Using the hole saw drill holes (tight fitting to pipe) through apposing sides so that the spray bar can feed right through from one end to the other and still hang out to allow support. Drill the IBC to be attached also. from a local bearing and oil seal supplier pick up 3x V-75 v rings. They are very suitable gromets, can hold alot of pressure and at $3 - $4, a very cheap alternative to bulk heads. fit the v rings to each hole and pop an end cap on the PVC pipe. lube up the 45 cut end of the PVC pipe with vaseline and feed n twist through the filter into the adjoining IBC. Using gutter guard, cut a square to fit the internal diameter of the pipe leaving 3cm strips off each corner like an X so they can be pulled through the 4 slits with ease and fold back through the second set of slits to prevent the mesh from falling out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Step 3 PUMP - I traded in a colony of flamebacks to the LFS for an aqua nova 6500ltr. attach suitable hose / piping and place the pump in the bottom of the filter IBC. i had a pond one 15000ltr cansiter with UV so attached in the middle. Step 4 PRESS PLAY! - turn on pump remmemberring to put 300ltr water in the bottom of the filter IBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I have now completed phase 2 of this project. I have attached another 2 IBC's to the line, 1 with a perspex window. I know that generally you should fix the perspex on the inside but in this case it had to be attached to the outside of the IBC, as the perspex is much stiffer than the poly bladder and actually holds a better contact than the inside. ( just trust me on this one as my wife insisted that I tried to put it on the inside as it would look nicer... and guess what that's another 10 points for the boys! ) Gradually I will install another 2 windows to the other 2 in the line but for now here is some instructions on HOW TO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 WHAT YOU NEED : 1 x 500 x 500 x 45mm perspex sheet 16 x STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS - 22 x 8 MM MUSHROOM HEAD WITH NUTS & WASHERS 1 x tube of aquarium silicone 120 grit paper a couple of various basic hand tools ( hole saw, jig saw, spanner / ratchet, star key, 9mm presision drill bit ) TO DRILL THE PERSPEX - The perspex sheet comes with a paper protection which is handy to mark out the holes with a pencil. Firstly mark one side to be the top. Then 25mm from each side draw a parralel line to each side. from the corners of the adjoining pencil lines, mark half and then halve the halves again on each side. Now you are ready to drill. ( I placed another perspex sheet underneath and while standing on them drilled 2 at a time so I had a template for the next. You may remove the paper protector now. TO ATTACH THE PERSPEX - This is a little tricky and awkward so you may want some one to assist you with this. Place the perspex up to the outside of the cut hole in the IBC and mark off the corners. Starting from the bottom centre hole mark inside the drill site then Drill the hole. Fix the perspex with the bolt in this hole. Then working from side to side, gradually working your way from the centre out fitting bolts as you go. ( this is essentil as the IBC bladder is slightly stretched and helps give an even contact when finished ) then work your way up to the top, side to side one at a time But do not start the top line. for the top line you start in the middle again and work out, side to side once again. Then when you're done you can take all the bolts out and take the perspex down to get it ready for the next step. ( just remember to have marked the top side or it may not fit back the way you planned ) mask off the perspex for the contact site 55mm and roughen the surface to give good contact with the 120 grit paper, you may leave the tape to have a clean silicone line just round off the corners to match the hole. do the same to the IBC. Place a bolt through the hole of each corner. Now use the whole tube evenly on the contact site of the perspex and place up to the IBC. Quickly drop all the bolts then start tightening ( I held the socket & shank without the ratchet while my friend tightened from the outside to obtain a constant pressure on each bolt... A torque wrench would be best ) in the same manner as they were drilled from the centre out and so on. Using a wet rag clean off the excess silicon, remove the masking tape and let to dry for at least a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Phase 3 complete - hardline for outlet from Canister I have added in a 40mm pressure line with taps to be more professional... Nah, really it helps deliver a sufficient supply of clean water to each tub as well as help with the removal of wastes. Before I had just run a hose to the first IBC and allowed the water to flow through the adjacent IBC until it reached the filter. This method was poor because in the last IBC there was allot of waste build up at the bottom that I had to net out manually. It has also improved the clarity of the water. This is a pair of 20cm+ Mono Argent Angels I have recently added This pic shows the improved clarity of the water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Each tap connection is comprised of 1x 1 1/2" brass gate valve, 2x 40mm pressure V.socket and 1x 40mm pressure tee / elbow with teflon tape on all thread The gate valves were / are on special at Bunnings for $6.03 the V.sockets are $2.40ea and a tee is $2.50. None of the connections are glued... They are held only with faith! The connection from the canister filter (the canister is only used as sort of a polisher to collect any gunk from the bottom of the sump and has a bonus UV in it) I designed it to be adjustable in height - 8cm below and 5.5cm above, the excursion can be improved simply by fitting a longer pipe between the 2 elbows i.e a 13cm pipe will give up to 10cm down W 7.5cm up and a 43cm pipe gives up to 40cm down W 37.5cm up. I achieved this via 2x elbows and works simply by fitting the pipe at the correct angle (can be seen in first pic) so the pipes can lay across the tops of the IBC with out any hang. the longer pipe from the canister only provides me with adequate room to access the back wash function on the canister. Connection comprised with, 1x 40mm pressure F.socket with teflon tape on thread and 2x 40mm pressure elbows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuffy_rana Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 informative post mate. looks good and congrats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bristlenosejohn Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Well done Roman mate, Also the red cheeks have also breed for me so big thanks again for these and great work with the detailed set up mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldenswimmers Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Great stuff mate...love seeing projects like this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danooki Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 That's brilliant, great job!! Totally Speechless from pure envy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 i've got a feeling I'll be seeing a few more of these systems popping up in the near future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the German Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Good job mate love a good DIY thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasMick Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 great post - keep us updated as you learn more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soumimjp Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Thats pretty awesome, have you got any plans for multiple windows on each IBC? Would they be able to cope with the pressure? Keep us updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CichlidBreeder Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Great set up ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWoods Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Really well done, mate. Thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thats pretty awesome, have you got any plans for multiple windows on each IBC? Would they be able to cope with the pressure? Keep us updated. They cope well with the pressure but like I stated in the thread, the acrylic windows must be on the outside of the bladder or the water pressure pulls the bladder away from the window. I know that you would think to do it on the inside but the acrylic is much stiffer than the soft bladder; there fore holds the pressure of the bladder pushing onto it, pushing against the cage. as for multiple windows I would find it pointless unless you did an individual one which I would have full confidence it would hold (if one holds the rest should also). The only downfall is that you'ld have to buy larger sheets around 500 H x 700 / 900 L) for your windows cause the bars on the other 3 sides are closer together and you'ld most likely have to extend out past them or you'ld loose the viewing space and possibly strength in the seal also. It's very possible to make a window the whole side @ 900 x 900 but the price of the acrylic + postage is where my buck stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adro1 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 nice setup. how much evaporation do you get by having the tops on the ibc open like you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Not much at all... I don't really notice so much as I do a water change every month (amount depends on rainfall for the month.) But it's not very humid in the shed either so very little. I am considering either perspex tops or just hinging the pieces I cut out back ontop for the colder seasons to trap heat in the night. All my heaters I've switched off cause of the problem I've been having with them in individual tubs (the first switches on all the time while the last never) and don't really need it ATM cause it's warm enough in there. When it gets colder I'll be setting them for a peak hour timer setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 WHAT YOU NEED :1 x 500 x 500 x 45mm perspex sheet 16 x STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS - 22 x 8 MM MUSHROOM HEAD WITH NUTS & WASHERS 1 x tube of aquarium silicone 120 grit paper a couple of various basic hand tools ( hole saw, jig saw, spanner / ratchet, star key, 9mm presision drill bit ) TO DRILL THE PERSPEX - The perspex sheet comes with a paper protection which is handy to mark out the holes with a pencil. Firstly mark one side to be the top. Then 25mm from each side draw a parralel line to each side. from the corners of the adjoining pencil lines, mark half and then halve the halves again on each side. Now you are ready to drill. ( I placed another perspex sheet underneath and while standing on them drilled 2 at a time so I had a template for the next. You may remove the paper protector now. TO ATTACH THE PERSPEX - This is a little tricky and awkward so you may want some one to assist you with this. Place the perspex up to the outside of the cut hole in the IBC and mark off the corners. Starting from the bottom centre hole mark inside the drill site then Drill the hole. Fix the perspex with the bolt in this hole. Then working from side to side, gradually working your way from the centre out fitting bolts as you go. ( this is essentil as the IBC bladder is slightly stretched and helps give an even contact when finished ) then work your way up to the top, side to side one at a time But do not start the top line. for the top line you start in the middle again and work out, side to side once again. Then when you're done you can take all the bolts out and take the perspex down to get it ready for the next step. ( just remember to have marked the top side or it may not fit back the way you planned ) mask off the perspex for the contact site 55mm and roughen the surface to give good contact with the 120 grit paper, you may leave the tape to have a clean silicone line just round off the corners to match the hole. do the same to the IBC. Place a bolt through the hole of each corner. Now use the whole tube evenly on the contact site of the perspex and place up to the IBC. Quickly drop all the bolts then start tightening ( I held the socket & shank without the ratchet while my friend tightened from the outside to obtain a constant pressure on each bolt... A torque wrench would be best ) in the same manner as they were drilled from the centre out and so on. Using a wet rag clean off the excess silicon, remove the masking tape and let to dry for at least a week. I have completed the same, but applied the perspex to the inside of the IBC this way the weight of water is "holding" the sheet not trying to push it out, but great work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlidwife Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 mate that is one good set up....... makes my 8ft and other tanks look like nothing...... mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigo Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 mate that is one good set up....... makes my 8ft and other tanks look like nothing......mike/QUOTE] Waaa? Mike, have YOU even seen your 8fter?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattyd Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 The pictures don't work for me... what am I missing out on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I have completed the same, but applied the perspex to the inside of the IBC this way the weight of water is "holding" the sheet not trying to push it out, but great work Like i described in the thread that the perspex is more rigid and far stronger than the bladder of the IBC and since it presses against the steel frame it held fine. The first time I installed the perspex it leaked after a short while. Just keep an eye on the bottom corners as mine leaked from there. Any way if it worked for you I am glad that some one has also completed the project and hope you are as happy with it as I am. And as for an 8ft tank versus the IBC it depends on what you have in it really. i.e. 2 P bass wil allways be next to each other in an IBC where they can be apart in an 8ft but when it comes down to smaller species or less aggresive ones I fair the IBC as they can all pick a corner as teritory. But it's not really a display thing it's more of a breeding project. I too would like to walk into a room full of 8 and 10's to be able to see every aspect and really enjoy the display but for me it's where the buck stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontosa_dave Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 nice setup ive been colecting ibcs for the next house i move into ur setup is of great inspiration to me cheers dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
