jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Finally got the Solar Heating setup for my fish room:cool: for under $1000 I have a complete auto solar system for my fish room (Note I am a licenced Sparky for some of the work needed) Please see diagrams, will post pics soon Parts are off the shelf at bunnings or EBAY and overseas Solar Heater 5 sqm of black heating tube $200 Solar fittings and normal pips $110 4500+ LPH with 6m+ lift pump $200 Solar Controller EBAY $150 (really good system) 600W X 2 SCHEGO TITANIUM HEATERS back up heaters $250-$300 OS let me know if I can assist with part numbers if interested currently holding my tanks at 29 deg with only 2-3 hours per day on at 90W I have taken 2000w of heaters out system is expandable for $200 if I find in winter it is not keeping up also has 1200w of titanium heaters as back up if the system falls below 25 deg it will only return it to 28 and wait for the solar system to take over the controller is fully programmable to any settings My heating costs have dropped from $5+ per day to less than 50 cents MORE POSTS BELOW WITH NEW DETAILS Cheers Ben PS Donny, no Carbon tax needed to save power and the environment, better still its less money for her now to give away:) Edited February 22, 2012 by jabmel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CichlidBreeder Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Can you also do this with lighting, I am looking at running an off the grid system in my bungalow down south. I already run solar lighting in my little 2ft tank with solar outdoor lights from bunnings. Works well. Was thinking of using air filtration units and running a small air pump off a solar set up. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) 1. yes, but not heating (alot higher cost due to the nature of the current draw can be done though), if the lights and pumps are 12 volts its better but a 12/24 to 240 inverter will allow you to run anything the system and batteries will supply, not Wats are the same in 12v as to 240 v, so a 30w pump requires 30w no matter the supply voltage just calculate the days where no sun is available to charge the batteries, vs load draw to get the capacity required to keep the supply uninterrupted, rule of thumb charge capacity less daily draw x the days with no sun ie 5 so a 4000w system that draws 2000w back per day can re charge in 2 days giving the need for a 10000w watt back up, at 12 volts thats 830 AH of batteries (again rule of thum) location and better calculations are needed Ben cheers Edited February 22, 2012 by jabmel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CichlidBreeder Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Any other ways heating/cooling can be solved off the grid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Any other ways heating/cooling can be solved off the grid? Yes money fix anything, dep on what you want to do, I am looking at a new slab next to my fish room, before I poor it I will run 50 mtrs of pipe under it and if the tanks are over 30 deg switch the pumps to cycle water under the covered slab, this should cool the water my current system of heeting in not "off the grid" but at leats 95% chaper than Jagar heates that were installed and should pay for it's self with in 1 winter whilst letting the tanks stay warmer allowing the fish to breed longer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CichlidBreeder Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Nice set up Jabmel, thanks for the ideas. Didn't think too much about heating out @ my property but now I think I will have to set up something to my battery solar/wind bank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) I think a few of us would like some part numbers so if you could provide I / we would appreciate it. whats the total volume of litres in your system of tanks? and how much excess water is needed to fill the tubes without running the sump dry? In terms of needing a licensed sparky how many hours work is required and what type of money would I be looking at to pay some one? And is it essential? Edited February 22, 2012 by fish4fish3 added extra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasMick Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 yes please - part numbers would be great. Well done on the setup and thanks for sharing your success. The drawing you have provided is great - better than some tech drawings I see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) solar controller i bought from tintin200688 on EBAY CONTROLLER of SOLAR WATER HEATER, 220V, 3 temperature SENSORS CONTROLLER of SOLAR WATER HEATER, 220V, 3 temperature SENSORS, | eBay $100 to $120 with postage to AUS you need a sparky for this bit less than an hour is you run the cables - DONT MIX WATER AND POWER Pump is PF 4800 from Bunnings $180 - $200 (any pump that can lift at least 6 mtrs is needed, but water flow is not to be fast, this pump I find works well) Heater is DIY solar heater from bunnings 5m sq $135 - $180 Bunnings you need a 6 pack of manafolds from bunnings $30-$60 also some othe pipe bits SCHEGO TITANIUM HEATERS (600w high heat output) (if you want these AoA has some) the system will control your heaters up to 2200 W (7 x 300w heaters) I don't loose too much water in the sump as the pipes hold some water, I also have an auto top up system to cover any loss, but once full the water drains into the sump once off I have 3000-4000 lts of water in 24 tanks this is not the best solution but works for me Ben Edited February 22, 2012 by jabmel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) more pictures:p:razz: .: HY-CLOR | SolarMat this website has details on the solar mat and manafold I used (From Bunnings) download the PDF from Fact sheet section Edited February 22, 2012 by jabmel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 .: HY-CLOR | SolarMat this website has details on the solar mat and manafold I used (From Bunnings) download the PDF from Fact sheet section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayPee Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Very nice set up there mate. My question is would i be able to use the old panels of my solar hart unit to heat the water. I had to replace it last year so i kept the panels hoping that i could some how use them for this reason. Due to the fact that they are not solar panels but heating panels i think this should be possible. The only other problem i will have is lifting the water to the roof. Living in a 2 storey house won't help but is possible. But thank you for all the info. =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Very nice set up there mate.My question is would i be able to use the old panels of my solar hart unit to heat the water. I had to replace it last year so i kept the panels hoping that i could some how use them for this reason. Due to the fact that they are not solar panels but heating panels i think this should be possible. The only other problem i will have is lifting the water to the roof. Living in a 2 storey house won't help but is possible. But thank you for all the info. =) first guess is no, the copper and metals in the system would not be good Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 I have a question that you may be able to answer. Could I use a controller similar to the one you have used to apply it to a Gas instant hot water system? I am only thinking about winter nights and the over cast days. Since it is a fairly expensive system with a long term return when you still have to heat during the nights when it is coldest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 sorry not sure, this is a full electronic controller, the one you have asked ablut I have no idea as to how it works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ok is there a controll panel similar to the one you have used that doesn't need to measure the roof temp to switch on or can I isolate the roof temp sensor? The continuos flow hot water systems switch on automatically when the water flows through them so all I need is a trigger for the feed pump like this controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 again not sure, this needs to mesure the roof as to confirm that there will be a gain if the pump is on, it does howerver allow for internal heaters to be used T2 and T3, cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish4fish3 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 heaters T2 and T3 are they just plugged in or are they hard wired? i.e could I rig a 40 - 80W pump to one of these lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 The "T"s are temp sensors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevj Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) does controller have ability to shut down automatically when you reach desired operating temperature (eg.29 degrees) or do you manually have to manually switch off as most controllers are factory preset to turn off at 70 or 80c and not adjustable Edited February 24, 2012 by nevj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 the controller is fully programable, and yes will shut down at the set temp (Both the solar pump or heaters up to 2400w of them). It also has the abbility to only turn the heaters on or off at set times ie for off peak if the solar did not heat the water enough during the day (Like the last 2 days) Cheers Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CichlidBreeder Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Great set up can see alot of work has gone into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuffy_rana Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 and if say a forumer was really lazy and also not a qualified sparky.......you would undertake the work for a fee? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 I come across these set ups as pool heaters quite often and the only things to be aware of are the breaking down of the solar matting (called tea leaving) that will cause the water to stain black/brown. This can also release chemicals into water but i am yet to see a aquarium set up like this so not sure if it is fatal to the fish or not. Also most pool systems will never keep the pool above 23 during winter so the use of supplementary heaters as the op has done is essential. All in all worth a try and i hope it works long term. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabmel Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 cheers Dave yes I also have one for the pool, but this system should maintain the tank heat due to the volume vs heater size which is about 10 to 20 time less than the pool, ie my pool is 150 000 lts with a 50 sqm heater and this is 3000 ltrs with a 5 (soon to be 10) sqm heater cheers will inspect the heater ever few months, a replacment heater mate is $180 if I have to replace it in 3 or so yeas its still worth the saving Cheers for the heads up Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
