Jump to content

Recommended Posts


I've got apisto aggie eggs, so i may be lucky enough to see fry - if the hydra don't get them first.

I've been doing some research on the net, but as a lot of it is contradictory, would like some personal opinions and suggestions

Namely - what is the best way to care for fry?

Should I remove eggs, remove fry from mum soon after they hatch out, leave them for 10 days after they hatch?

The only other inhabitants are 6 sterbai corydora and 3 tiny pepps.

Also - what is best to feed fry?

i read decapsulated brine shrimp eggs were good, but braddo has advised on my hydra thread, that these bring the hydra out, so to speak.

Is there a liquid fry food that would be suitable?

Also my adult aggies are proving a bit tricky to feed - tried sera flake, nls thera and azoo micro pellets.

Don't seem keen on any of these.

i was thinking some hikari cichlid sticks - can anyone suggest anything that works for them?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

corys will eat the fry - hydra will eat the fry - have you got a tank to move them too that is free of hydra? If so I would move them.

I like Microworms to feed fry. but BBS is good.

My staple diet for adults is NLS and all my apistos eat fine.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations on the spawn.

I'm afraid I can't help you to much. My aggies eat NLS flake and Hikari small pellets. They love Hikari frozen foods as well.

As for the fry, I would of suggested leaving them with mum for atleast a week, once they are free swimming, and to try feeding them on live baby shrimp. However in light of the hydra problem I really don't know what the best course of action would be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

corys will eat the fry - hydra will eat the fry - have you got a tank to move them too that is free of hydra? If so I would move them.

I like Microworms to feed fry. but BBS is good.

My staple diet for adults is NLS and all my apistos eat fine.


Thanks gb - it does help. :)

i've got two tanks - 4 fter that has big pepps and 10 rummy nose/pristella tetra at the moment and the 2ft quarantine tank, holding all the new fish.

I'm fairly new to this, so I was going very slowly, ensuring 2 weeks quarantine for each set of newcomers before adding to bigger tank. Now, I'm a bit screwed with the 3 sets of new fish, hydra and the fry.

Eggs are yet to hatch, but I'm removing all fish in 2fter today, popping them in a storage tub for two days and nuking their tank with panacur to rid hydra.

I'm thinking after 48 hrs nuking time, to return the apistos to the tank if their eggs haven't hatched, leaving the cories & pepps in the tub for another week and then cories & pepps into 4fter

If they apistos hatch, I will leave all apistos in the tub and return the cories & pepps to the 2ftr for a week - then into big tank and apistos back into in 2 fter. Then move apisto parents after 10 days and leave the fry in 2fter to grow out.

:boggle: :boggle: :boggle: I think....

Just on the microworm - can they be bought frozen - or do you purchase a starter culture?

Thanks briztoon for your reply, :) I'm going to try the Hikari small pellets.

Do you know if any of the prepared liquid fry foods any good.

Thanks again guys - your help is really appreciated :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll have to get a microworm culture from someone, if you can't find any on this forum, there's usually a guy on petlink that will freight them.

The adult apisto's should eat live blackworm and frozen bloodworm to.

Thanks for that Tutters :) - will check petlink for microworm culture and post an add here as well.

As for the bloodworms - read that live bloodworms can cause bloat, due to bloodworms having something in or on their anatomy (forget if its hairs or something??) which irritates apistos gut. Maybe frozen bloodworms don't have this issue??

Can anyone shed any light on this?

I've seen ads for aussie blackworms, so may try and get some of those.

Thanks again - loving these apistos - mums still pushing everyone away and dad is doing patrol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't really come across to many apistos with bloat but they do prefer blackworm when i've fed them in the past. Maybe then just feed it to them as a treat.

You should be able to pick up live blackworm from a few LFS - i know smiths aquarium stocks it, or atlas aquarium has pisces brand blackworm and brineshrimp.

And maybe try to get some whiteworms if your playing around with live foods. And even brineshrimp frozen/live.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks tutters - appreciate you taking the time :)

Going to do the ring around and see if a lfs around hawthorne has worms.

Annerley might - he seems to have everything.

Bit shy about BBS, due to the hydra issue, but keen on blackworms/whiteworms.

Also, going to get a culture - like the idea of growing my own, so to speak. :mrgreen:

Cheers & thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just been reading your thread. I have & do use a liquid fry food with success.

Wardley's Essentials Small Fry. Comes in a 30g tube & is available at most LFS for around $10.

Don't need to use much & lasts for ages. Age of Aquariums @ Browns Plains also have a vast range

of foods. They have Geo Liquid which I've heard is quite good (haven't used it myself).

You could try there. Alternatively speak to Todd or Ben at River to Reef Aquariums at Norman Park.

They would be only a hop, skip & a jump from your location & only too willing to steer you in the right direction.

Hope this is of some help.

Happy fish keeping.

Cheers Shorty. :fish:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pet City in Mt Gravatt also have blackworm. I got some from there a couple of weeks ago and my fish loved them.

Also I used to feed my babies watered down boiled egg yolk. Boil the egg, then mash the yolk with a fork, then mix it with about 100mls of water and put it into a squeezie bottle. Whenever you go to feed them give the bottle a good shake and then squeeze some into the water. I've used this for angels, gouramis, siamese fighters and a few other species.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your reply Shorty - does help - very much :)

Have been to river & reef - but I my timing must have been way off as both times I went in, poo was hitting the fan in rather large proportions.

Thanks for the info on liquid fry food - its good to get a personal recommendation

Thanks for that info Nigel - loving the boiled egg yolk idea.

Great to have some choice!

I'm off to have a look at Pet city this weekend - never been before, so looking forward to it

Cheers guys, appreciate your help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your aim with breeding is....

Maximise fry numbers....

Ensure fry survival because you want to maintain the specie or develop their characteristics

maximise growth rate

Then you are best to remove eggs....hatch fry and raise separately......

You can put them in a smaller tank where water changes can be made more frequently(daily even) and uneaten food can be removed daily

and there is no risk of them being eaten by parents or other fish...

IF you would just like to observe the parents raising their fry(my preferred option)....and ensuring maximum survival isn't paramount or you just don't have the space to maximise numbers etc.....leave them to be raised by parents....however in my experience Good parents are not easy to find....but you may be Lucky?

Personally I'd steer away from liquifry....Best to leave a gallon jar of water in the Sun and seed it with some old aquarium water, add some powdered yeast....or aquasol....that gets a bacterial bloom followed by Green water= Great first food

Microworms are great food after the first week.....vinegar eels are even smaller(Fishchick has cultures in her shop) and they will survive for a day before they die(if not eaten first)

As for non live foods.....I have had Good results with cyclop eeze....but it needs to be soaked first so it sinks

culture a big clump of Java moss...Great substrate for infusoria...and will Help with water quality too

I have 2 species of aggies.....double red and tefe....they love tetra bits and Spectrum Small Fish Formula

black worms are great...Easy to buy a few onces on a weekly basis...great to condition fish for breeding, but make sure they are healthy

Keep in fridge if you buy more than a day's supply

White worms are a pain to propogate....but great food if you can culture them(they like the cooler weather)

Grindal worms are great too..easier than white worms....but not as easy as black worms

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Rod

Thanks for taking the time to post - you give good info, eh? :)

Eggs were unfortunately snacked on - don't know if the parents were the culprits or the cories.

I'm fairly new to fishkeeping and very new to apistos - really just want to observe their amazing parenting techniques.

Interest and curiosity was piqued in a big way just reading about them - so I'm really looking forward to seeing them in action - so to speak.

Today I moved everyone else out of the quarantine 2 fter, leaving the pair of apistos in there alone.

Not to breed, just so I can watch them.

The cories bopping around kept them pretty much hidden, but now they are out all the time.

If eggs happen, I will decide then whether to leave them in there and see what they do, move the parents into the community tank, or put the eggs into a small 12 litre tank.

Mine are pretty plain - light yellow green with a black horizontal stripe but I'm just loving them - amazing little fish.

I've seen pictures of the tefe's and the double reds - WOW!!

Flash fish!

My apistos don't seem to care much for spectrum thera or tetra bits..

I've also bought them tetramin rich mix and some sera flora flake that I soak and drop down - and that hasn't been gobbled either.

I've been reading on the apistogramma site about grindal worms - didn't know that they were available in Australia - I'm going to try and track some down - I really like the idea of raising food for them

So for fry - will do microworms and the green water - might see jodi lea about the vinegar eels as well.

Gumby question - the infusoria and java moss - was the recipe for green water - ie yeast/tank water/sun = bacterial bloom= green water - is that infusoria? If so - do i put a piece of moss in the jar with yeast, etc?

If not - could you explain the method you use to cultivate infusoria?

I've read about using a sponge filter in fry tank for filtration and for the rotifers that grow on them, that fry eat - is that correct? I've got an eheim 2213 on the 2fter and have placed a piece of sponge on the intake - but it may still be a bit fast flowing..

Anyway - sorry for the long reply - and thanks again for your help.

Its very much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have large amount of java moss in breeding tanks.....

a. To provide a natural substrate for infusoria

b. to help with water quality

c. hiding spot for female/male if partner gets aggressive

I find a well planted tank has lots on natural infusoria for newly hatched fish and the first couple of weeks are the hard ones after they can eat microworms it's a lot easier. All aged aquarium water will have some infusoria in it

With the green water....you can add java moss to the jar or have it in the breeding/hatching tank and add Green water with water changes.

Green water is full of infusoria and wont foul the water as liquifry or egg yokes can if left uneaten

With green water it may go cloudy white first(bacterial bloom) then green latter....may even go clear if infusoria maxes out and eats all green water....if you hold jar to Sun you may see all the little bugs moving about! Beauty is you can't overfeed!!

If you have sponge filters...air driven are best....they are more efficient

Can't go too wrong feeding any of the better brands....avoid cheaper generics....maybe Great...but???

With a lot of Apistos I find it is necessary to have very soft water...50%+ rainwater

They will breed in aged tap water.....but eggs tend to harden too quickly to be fertilised in hard water....and good fish will eat eggs that are not fertilised so they may not be "egg eaters" they may be doing a Good job if the water is too hard...

I also keep Malaysian trumpet snails in breeding and fry tanks....lots of people hate these snails with a passion because they are prolific and will quickly overrun a tank if there is lots of uneaten food about....but I see them as perfect scavengers for fry tanks

They don't eat eggs

They don't eat plants

but they do eat leftovers before it goes septic

I think Jodi has starter cultures of micro and grindal worms too

She also has some stunning double red aggies and very nice cauc's at the moment!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Rod

Thats great information.

On a different note - would you add any more aggies to the exiting two (in a 90 litre 2fter) - or am I asking for aggro?

I would love to get some of the double reds...

I ask as I'm going to get some grindal worms & some more moss from Jodi Lea and don't know if I have the will power to resist buying more fish..I'm still keen on german blue rams as well...decisions, decisions.

Maybe move the current aggies into community, quarantine blue rams for a fortnight, move them into community tank, then buy some double reds and leave them in 2 fter???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Create New...