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Teacherman

Tecden's 3 tier stand-short 4 foot version

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Original link is here:

http://www.qldaf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&p=75260#p75260

I made a 4 foot version of this stand yesterday (I got a handy mate to help), and it took about 4 hours. I made my stand quite a bit shorter, because there is not much head room under my house.

Bunnnings gave me the pine with the ridges on it, but I reckon it'll paint up a treat. I'll get some photos and costings up soon.

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I just noticed my stand is a strange length- around 135 cm, just under 4 foot 6. Could have made it shorter to fit a standard tank.

tankstand1.jpg[/attachment:2um07jc7]

Anyone got some sump ideas? half the bottom tier?

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I would make your stand a little wider and turn all your tanks end on so you can have more tanks and your fish can have somewhere secure to escape if they wish. - Even 3 foot long tanks can go end on comfortably. Since head height is a problem, if you overhang the tanks 6-8cm over the front stand edge you can get more working room between tank tiers. (So the vertical distance between tanks does not have the wooden beam between)

Also since you want a sump but your vertical distance is tight, I would drain the top tank down into the tank below via an overhead trickle. Essentially the tank below is the sump for you except you also have fish using it too. Connect the bottom row of tanks horizontally and have one pump return water to each tank individually with valves (taps).

Another possibility is to connect tanks on each tier with water bridges.

bridge.jpg

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Thanks aquaholic. You mean have the tanks wider (longer) than the stand width, so that they overhang at the front. Will they be supported enough? I've never seen it done- but it would give me more access room.

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Now painted and with tanks. 300 mm High on top tier, other two are both 400mm.

Next stage drilling holes for the plumbing, and finding the hardware.

Not quite sure how to get water from the bottom tank into the sump next to it. Perhaps a water bridge???DSCF7172.JPG[/attachment:1f23lo76]

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id leave it off the system you can use it as a quarantine tank

or if you want something a bit diff

can age water in it

other than that the water will drain intot he sump cause you wont have the sump water level anywhere near the same as the tank

peter

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You've inspired me to pull my finger out and get around to setting up more tanks. Unfortunately I only made a small amount of progress before rain interrupted play.

timber.jpg

Gotta start sorting out the plumbing too.

pipes.jpg

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Now painted and with tanks. 300 mm High on top tier, other two are both 400mm.

Next stage drilling holes for the plumbing, and finding the hardware.

Not quite sure how to get water from the bottom tank into the sump next to it. Perhaps a water bridge???

If you are drilling your tanks then put the drain hole where you want the water level to be (on bottom row) and simply overflow it into the sump. If you are not drilling the tanks then you can do a similar thing with a pipe overflow or hang on overflow. If you particularly want to use a water bridge then add a small baffle into your sump which is sealed at bottom and as high as you want the water level on bottom row of tanks. - Essentially a small tank within the sump.

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just bought the bulkheads and plumbing fittings. Took a mate who's a tradie and got a discount, but it still looks like I'm not going to be spending any money on fish for a loooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggggggg time! Got 20mm bulkheads by the way.

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Your tanks are only 6mm glass so I think tank outlets/bulkheads are a waste of money for your situation, especially as you will not be moving them very much. I would use PVC pipe fittings with a rubber O ring (gasket). ie Valve sockets and Faucet sockets (with elbow, Tee or straight as required.

If possible, plumb tanks with a Tee on the outside to vent any air sucked in. This reduces gurgle noise and improves flow.

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Thanks Aquaholic,

Shame I've already bought the bits. At least I'll have them forever (ie for when I inevitably upgrade to bigger tanks).

I'm not going to plumb in the bottom tank, but keep it separate, more as a quarantine tank than for any other reason.

Should I drill holes for the pipes coming from the pump, or just the ones leading to the sump? I have enough bulkheads. If not, how does everyone configure the water into the tanks?

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Drill through the bottom for the bulkheads to drain, and use either PVC balljoints ot poly 'greenback' valves coming in from above the tanks.

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Good stand. They are almost exactly the same as the way I made the stands for Fishchick aquatics shop. They look good and not too expensive. I found that Mitre 10’s have smooth pine and will haggle on price depending on how much you buy.

My pet dislike on that design is the bottom rail flat on the floor. I made all ours 200mm up but you don’t need to go that high just not flat.

The issue I have with the bottom rail on the floor, especially since you are putting in a system is leaks on the plumbing and overflows due to blockages and overfilling during water changes.

Any water that gets under your stand will be held in there and rot the timber very quickly. The stand needs to be high enough off the ground to allow the water to get away and air to pass through to dry the timber out. You will need to lift the stand at least 50mm to achieve this.

Also if the lower joints and ends haven’t been sealed before screwing the stand together, water locked under the stand will be drawn up into the gape/joint and soak into the raw timber.

Just a thought.

Cheers

T

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Good point. I've painted underneath, and the stand is sitting on concrete- is that enough to prevent rotting?

I can't really raise my stand anymore- there's not much height under my house!

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If your tanks are not on central filtration, the bottom row will get too cold in winter when you room heat tanks sitting that low. Partly because of poor air circulation, partly because the floor sucks heat. At a mimimum I would use 150mm which is a house brick high. I use house bricks to keep the feet out of water (floods) but you can also use plastic chop board (only 10mm high) to do the same thing. I only use house bricks as I have several hundred house already which also saves me 150mm of wood per stand leg.

If vertical height is your problem I would use overhead filters or perhaps have a slide out tray on your bottom sump with almost no clearance.

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