Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 hey guys, some time in the next few weeks im splitting my garage in half and running a small reverse cycle inverter air conditioner to do away with the heaters in winter and keep cooler in summer on the really hot days. had my mate come over today and we brainstormed some ideas of the wall we are going to put up so the garage door can still open and looked at what we can insulate the garage door with. so my question is who else out there is climate controlling their room instead of individual heaters in each sump and can you give me any advice/feedback? cheers, steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daydream Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Yep split system ac inverter coolncoasy in the roof bats in the wall and rubber seal around garadge door wich has batts held in place with a buuble wrap style insulator.Cost a bit to set up but with 4 breeding seasons a year soon paid for itself.Droped about $260 a quarter of the bill in winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 cheers daydream, I already have the roof in the garage insulated, and deffinatly putting bats in the wall were putting up. the hardest bit im finding is what to use to seal the edge of the garage door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint87 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Not yet but will definitely be putting one in when I build my fish shed! I sent you a pm as well mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 this is what im sort of looking at. seems a bit pricy though, has to be a cheaper option for some bristles lol. might go buy 20 broom heads and cut them up lmao B D EMB A Seal Embaseal 4 LGE Panel Garage Door 0T5474 | eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daydream Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Sticky sidedfoam from bunnings about $30 for 20 m.About 10mm thickx80mm wide.Iused around door so it closes tight the put a run along the floor where th door closes works a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 sweet. I have the floor seal sorted already with a thick rubber seal. the foam could work, but I would have to run a strip of gyprock down the bricks so they don't tear the foam up when it closes. I could probably even sikaflex the foam to the garage door around the edging to make sure it definitely doesn't budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Do you have a panel garage door or a roller door. IF you have a panel door you can buy styrofoam sheets that will fit inside the panels and you simply silicone them in place. or Home Insulation - Denbar (QLD) Pty Ltd All Insulation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_vr90 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 I'd be keen to get some of that from den bar if anyone else is getting some, its only a 15 min drive for me to pick up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Green Insulation 500 x 12mm 20m Reflecta GDI Double Garage Door Insulation - Bunnings Warehouse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 hmm thanks grubby, that green insulation looks the go, not to badly priced either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Have you also thought about sealing the floor ? You bleed a hell of a lot of heat through a bae concrete floor. This will stop it. http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_8l-dymark-epoxy-clear-paint-garage-floor-kit_P1580413.aspx I just insulated my garage ceiling this past weekend, bloody hard work with all the trusses. About 60 sq metres. Two 12sq m bags at $83 each and a 9 sq m bag at $60, but it already feels warmer in there. Gonna put reflective insulation around the backs and sides of my tank rack when it goes in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 The Bunnings is cheaper than DENBAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 this is what im sort of looking at. seems a bit pricy though, has to be a cheaper option for some bristles lol. might go buy 20 broom heads and cut them up lmaoB D EMB A Seal Embaseal 4 LGE Panel Garage Door 0T5474 | eBay http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/images/catalogue/_Rubber-Flooring-Catalogue/Catalogue/files/assets/downloads/page0008.pdf As you may have guessed I have done a lot of research into this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuba Steve Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 ive got the floor sorted. ive already got marine carpet through the whole fishroom that has a rubber non slip base witch insulates really well. that rubber seal is very similar to the stuff I have ordered. thanks for the ideas guys, its really cleared a few things up I was stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquaholic99 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Its also quite easy to put up a temporary internal wall of 50mm polystyrene just for winter if you want to separate the fish from the rest of the garage. At that thickness it is self supporting although you can add a couple of vertical wooden studs for additional support. I often throw up a rack of tanks to wall off the area and attach the polystyrene to the back. Its very easy to remove and store for next season as Brissy only has a couple of cool months. You can add a lift off door easily too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 The other thing I have done which has made an huge difference is put wirly birds in the roof. Our house is divided into two roof spaces joined by a cathederal ceiling in the middle where the dining room, kitchen, main living room is. The sleeping section is one roof space and the front room office, laundry and garage are another.In both these cells I installed whirly birds and put lockable vents in the manhole panels, which can be locked open in the summer and closed off in the winter. Because the garage was cold in the summer and freezing in the winter this has made a huge difference. In summer the garage would heat up when you drove a car into it from engine heat, the panels when open suck the heat out via the whirly bird and keep everything cosy when locked off in the winter. The foil garage panels will reflect heat in the summer and insulate in the winter. With whirly birds you also need to have vents in your eaves to flow fresh air into the roof space, done that too. We have hardly needed the A/c at all this year summer or winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 ive got the floor sorted. ive already got marine carpet through the whole fishroom that has a rubber non slip base witch insulates really well. that rubber seal is very similar to the stuff I have ordered. thanks for the ideas guys, its really cleared a few things up I was stuck on. How much does that cost and I assume you buy it at a chandlery ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grubby Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 I have a few outside tanks atm . This is my solution until I can get the garage painted. It is working well and very cheap to do. Simple physics. http://www.qldaf.com/forums/aquarium-projects-diy-journals-11/space-blanket-keeping-tanks-warm-91670/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 insulate and air con has to be a better option than heaters,a simple mistake often made is to leave windows just as they are, glass leaks heat quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trofius Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 (edited) my fish room is a 7 x 4 steel shed, with a 3.6m wide rollar door, I feel your pain lol The main room of the shed has teh foil bubble wrap stuff on every surface. I have also added r3.5 bates on top of the ceiling, and tehre is maybe a 20cm air gap aswell The walls also have the aircell wrap, and r1.5 bates, the entire room is linned, gyproc on teh ceiling and vila board on the walls the PA door has 40mm polystyrene attached and again internally lined with 3m mdf, the door frame has a 3mm seal aswell, so it is AIR tight. The widow has a 20mm polystyrene cover sandwiched between 2 peices of mdf, that sits in the inside frame and lifts out.. The concrete floor has a seamless polyurathane coating., and is cold.. My only real headache is the rolla door, I am in the process of building an internal wall that opens up like two big doors, these panels are 40mm polystyrene sandwiched between ply/mdf, and internally supported with 40 x 20mm pine around the edges, so teh hinges have something to attach to. There is drop down infront of the rolla door, this will have a bit of ceiling attched, so it covers under the rolla door when rolled up. Together this effectively seals the room ( working on little gaps to make it air tight.) In summer i have a wirly bird in the roof, cool air is sucked up over the top of the rolla door into the roof space, helping to keep it cool. I have a 5.5kw MHI aircon that is barely trickling over, room stays 26-28 year round. I have a crazy build thread on the tropheus fanatics site ican link to if wanted. That ember seal stuff is crazy expensive because the rubber they use for it is very heat resistant. The thing that kills a room is little air leaks that allow cold air to creap in, it makes a massive difference, and is easy to detect, there will be a huge temperature gradient in teh room, ie top tanks will be hot , bottom tanks will cold. Edited July 2, 2013 by trofius Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint87 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Bit off topic but you all have me a bit scared this is the first winter with my setup currently running about 2000 L in my uninsulated garage with two 300watt jäger and two 100watt heaters should I start saving for my next elec bill? Can't wait to build my fish shed if only I had the time ATM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquaholic99 Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 You do need whirly gigs or air circulation or you get lots of condensation and mould. You can be too well insulated. I have large skylights with 25mm polystyrene underneath. Lets in enough sun to reduce lighting but keeps the. heat/cold out. Morning sun can be essential for some species to spawn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efc Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 All my tanks are outside. 17-18 degrees in winter and 28-30 in summer. Electricity bills suck but it's a hobby right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFishkeeper Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 insulate and air con has to be a better option than heaters,a simple mistake often made is to leave windows just as they are, glass leaks heat quick I got the builders to put a 3 inch roof blanket on the roof frame of my shed before screwing the roof panels on, and I have two vented whirlybirds on the roof for summer. I also got them to put foil insulation on the wall frames before screwing the wall sheets on, and then lined the walls inside with 60mm high density foam. Rarely need to use the air-con in summer, tanks stay at around 27 all summer. Use air-con mainly for heating in winter. I have two large windows in the front wall of the shed and have used metal roller shutters on these as they are insulated and are good for keeping heat in in winter and the height can be adjusted in summer when the sun is on that wall in the afternoon. They can also be left almost closed in winter so air can still circulate through the small gaps between the shutters and the fish room is still secure. Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
