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Well really I don't care enough to worry about proving it to you but they were both 300W and both set at the exact same temp as the Jager, All at 28. Like I said just going off what I saw happen in front of me. Maybe Aquarworld heaters aren't what they say they are?

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Well really I don't care enough to worry about proving it to you but they were both 300W and both set at the exact same temp as the Jager, All at 28. Like I said just going off what I saw happen in front of me. Maybe Aquarworld heaters aren't what they say they are?

When you say 28 degrees did you have another way of measuring the temperature or did you just rely on the heaters temperature setting?

If you relied on the heaters setting your problem is right there I have a jäger and it's 4 degrees out. If you have an alternate way of temperature monitoring then the below could be true.

Yeah I understand, I wasn't saying you didn't realise they were 300w more the fact the manufacturer is false advertising.

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Edited by bazz

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I had a digi and a normal mercury thermometer in there.

Yeah I guess that's what you get when you are paying $18 for a 300W heater, lol. You prob only get a 150 or something.

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When you say 28 degrees did you have another way of measuring the temperature or did you just rely on the heaters temperature setting?

If you relied on the heaters setting your problem is right there I have a jäger and it's 4 degrees out. If you have an alternate way of temperature monitoring then the below could be true.

Yeah I understand, I wasn't saying you didn't realise they were 300w more the fact the manufacturer is false advertising.

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Most of the Jager heaters can be calibrated to correct the temperature if they are out at any time - you should be able to get it back into range.

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Most of the Jager heaters can be calibrated to correct the temperature if they are out at any time - you should be able to get it back into range.

True, make sure you use a reliable thermometer to check the temperature. Turn the red arrow on top of the heater to the current temperature of the tank and then turn the blue dial to the desired temperature :beer:

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I'm not sure how the titanium ones are made but they will generally use a heat transfer compound. As you said will have better heat transfer ability then glass.

However in the application of aquariums as long as the heater is completely submersed and the coil inside the heater doesn't burn out due to lack of heat transfer efficiency, there is no benefit other then durability.

I would argue that there definitely would be benefits with certain materials beyond durability.

Lets go back to cast iron as an extreme - the thermostat senses the water is cold and turns the heater on. Taking efficiency of heat transfer between the coil and and tube out of the equation, the cast iron would take longer to heat up, and longer again to pass that energy into the water and heat the aquarium. The real problem comes when the water reaches the desired temperature - now the thermostat will switch the coil off, but the cast iron will continue to heat the water for some time. Not only will that cause the water to be warmer than intended, but any heat given off by the heater after it is switched off is wasted energy.

Using a material with more suitable properties will allow the heater to be controlled more efficiency and definitely save money, and also allow a smaller heater to heat a larger space as the lag between the water temperature dropping/thermostat switching on and the heater actually passing that heat onto the water will be less.

In a perfect world you want your coil to be set in a non conductive thermal transfer compound (diamond particles suspended in liquid base would be perfect, but expensive) inside a highly conductive tube, that is as thin as possible whilst maintaining strength, and also aquarium safe. For that reason most of the usual culprits are out (silver, copper & gold). As you start to look through different metals in order of conductivity you will eventually get down to the "also rans" which include titanium. Not the best conductor of heat, but it is "aquarium safe" and the strength would allow the walls of the tube to be thinner and therefor make up ground over the more superior conductors.

Now that I think about it more its all starting to make sense.

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I would argue that there definitely would be benefits with certain materials beyond durability.

Lets go back to cast iron as an extreme - the thermostat senses the water is cold and turns the heater on. Taking efficiency of heat transfer between the coil and and tube out of the equation, the cast iron would take longer to heat up, and longer again to pass that energy into the water and heat the aquarium. The real problem comes when the water reaches the desired temperature - now the thermostat will switch the coil off, but the cast iron will continue to heat the water for some time. Not only will that cause the water to be warmer than intended, but any heat given off by the heater after it is switched off is wasted energy.

Using a material with more suitable properties will allow the heater to be controlled more efficiency and definitely save money, and also allow a smaller heater to heat a larger space as the lag between the water temperature dropping/thermostat switching on and the heater actually passing that heat onto the water will be less.

In a perfect world you want your coil to be set in a non conductive thermal transfer compound (diamond particles suspended in liquid base would be perfect, but expensive) inside a highly conductive tube, that is as thin as possible whilst maintaining strength, and also aquarium safe. For that reason most of the usual culprits are out (silver, copper & gold). As you start to look through different metals in order of conductivity you will eventually get down to the "also rans" which include titanium. Not the best conductor of heat, but it is "aquarium safe" and the strength would allow the walls of the tube to be thinner and therefor make up ground over the more superior conductors.

Now that I think about it more its all starting to make sense.

I agree with what your saying, it generally applies to much higher powered elements. They generally use nichrome for those elements.

The difference between glass and titanium is neglible at the temperatures aquariums need to be at.

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Yeah I'm not saying there would be a huge difference, or even a noticeable difference, I was just trying to make the point that from a scientific point of view not all heaters are created equal.

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Finally.....

I have been trying to explain this on the forum for a very long time. Doesn't matter what is written on the side of the box of a certain brand every 300 watt heater has the same heating capacity. Jäger 300w claim 600-1000 litres where as other brands claim 300 litres regardless they have the same heating efficiency.

The only difference is the accuracy of the temperature control and overall quality of the heater.

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I feel your frustration ..... It seems a lot of folks who spend big just don't like to accept they could get the same heating efficiency out of a cheap nasty Chinese heater worth 1/4 of the price.

That being said .... the big spenders do win in terms of reliability, longevity, functionality, and down right heater sexiness when compared to those cheap nasty units

As far as a heaters "rating" goes I've always considered it as the heaters 'duty cycle' .... All 300w heaters have the same thermal output / efficiency but the the higher rated heater is a quality product tested to run for say 10 cumulative hours a day over set period (good for the 1000 litre) against the lower rated heater not trusted to run more than say 6 cumulative hours a day (making it only good for 300 litres)

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Exactly so the energy saving in it will be the precise temperature control unit within .5 of a degree, on older heaters there could be a big lag in it and cause it to heat for longer periods then needed or on off on off too often, but this all depends on the little precise unit fingers crossed it is precise haha

Unfortunately no savings there either .... if the thermostat is less accurate / effective the surplus heat still enters the tank. A cheap heater with a see sawing temperature range between 22 and 30 degrees will still use the same electricity as an expensive model holding within 1/2 a degree of 26.

The more expensive heater may be much 'better' at heating and holding to a particular temperature but for a given wattage and averaged temperature it won't be more efficient in terms of power consumption.

Edited by lochdan

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I feel your frustration ..... It seems a lot of folks who spend big just don't like to accept they could get the same heating efficiency out of a cheap nasty Chinese heater worth 1/4 of the price.

That being said .... the big spenders do win in terms of reliability, longevity, functionality, and down right heater sexiness when compared to those cheap nasty units

As far as a heaters "rating" goes I've always considered it as the heaters 'duty cycle' .... All 300w heaters have the same thermal output / efficiency but the the higher rated heater is a quality product tested to run for say 10 cumulative hours a day over set period (good for the 1000 litre) against the lower rated heater not trusted to run more than say 6 cumulative hours a day (making it only good for 300 litres)

Yeah, all I wanted to do was let people know 300 watt = 300 watt. Lots of marketing bull**** out there and some of the heaters do not even pass Australian electrical safety standards.

Never thought of the duty cycle you bring up a very good point. Could be what seperates the quality heaters from the crap ones!

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I feel your frustration ..... It seems a lot of folks who spend big just don't like to accept they could get the same heating efficiency out of a cheap nasty Chinese heater worth 1/4 of the price.

That being said .... the big spenders do win in terms of reliability, longevity, functionality, and down right heater sexiness when compared to those cheap nasty units

As far as a heaters "rating" goes I've always considered it as the heaters 'duty cycle' .... All 300w heaters have the same thermal output / efficiency but the the higher rated heater is a quality product tested to run for say 10 cumulative hours a day over set period (good for the 1000 litre) against the lower rated heater not trusted to run more than say 6 cumulative hours a day (making it only good for 300 litres)

Lol let's just say it looks cool in the bottom of my sump, but for me i have 3500ltrs and was running 2x 300w heaters now i am running 1 500w and day 2 it's still doing a good job, hding the heat at a perfect 26 as it was set nealy everytime i look at it, it seems to be off lol but it's doing it's job and for $52 i couldn't buy 2x300w for that well i don't think so anyways, don't go getting on the online stores and posting links proving me wrong now hahaha!!

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Oh this debate again haha...you may not save money through the overall power consumption...but at $55 your saving over $35 off the RRP..thats savings I understand :D

Now this lads onto it straight to the point "SAVINGGGGGGS" haha

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Got a photo of the heater with the heater guard in action ?

I'll grab 1 for you tomorrow mate, it requires me to remove 2 filter wool panels to get to it, i suctioned it to the bottom of my sump the chamber before the outlet.

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I'll grab 1 for you tomorrow mate, it requires me to remove 2 filter wool panels to get to it, i suctioned it to the bottom of my sump the chamber before the outlet.

Any update? Interesting to see the results.

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Any update? Interesting to see the results.

Yeah mate today being 1 week still doing a great job holding 26 degrees as set, all 8 tanks and the sump are perfect fish are still breeding couldn't be happier, will give another update in a week. Only thing that was crap was the instructions were the total opposite to how you actually operate it haha!!

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Week 5 update still working 100% like the day i bought it, it's doing a surprisingly good job at keeping 3500ltrs at the precise temp, i'm quiet suprised very accurate.

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I'm also very happy with my original 500w so I ordered another two last week.

The led read out and the red/blue on/off led lights make it a very easy to see what's going in with the thermostat and overall temp.

Besides being 15 feet long I can't fault them :)

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Was a great heater however mine has stopped heating ><

I am not sure what has happen the led is still working (reading how cold the tank is) and the "on" light for heating is coming on but the unit is not heating at all. Anyone had this issue?

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Was a great heater however mine has stopped heating ><

I am not sure what has happen the led is still working (reading how cold the tank is) and the "on" light for heating is coming on but the unit is not heating at all. Anyone had this issue?

I've gone back to jager heaters now, i had 4 of these 3 stopped woeking just after 12 months, and the other gave my wife an electric shock and tripped the power in the house due to the glass fracturing at some stage up behind the led panel. Kind of a let down as they were a good heater.

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I've had 7 of the 500w shoguns, of which 3 failed. 1 exploded in tank, 1 stopped heating same as mentioned above and the last one only recently has completely died, no power, no lights, no display.

Im now using the Biopro/Hopar 400 & 500w heaters, so far no issues.

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